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Many cities require a permit for a new concrete driveway, especially where it meets the street or affects drainage, while a simple patio replacement often doesn't. Permit requirements vary by city and by whether the project changes the footprint of the existing concrete. A contractor familiar with the local jurisdiction can confirm what's needed before work starts.

A standard driveway or patio pour usually takes one to two days for forming and pouring, plus several more days of curing before it can handle vehicle weight. Concrete is generally safe to walk on after 24 to 48 hours but needs about seven days before a car should drive on it, and closer to 28 days to reach full strength. Larger or more decorative jobs like stamped concrete can add a day or two for detailing.

Concrete costs can be adjusted by choosing a standard broom finish instead of stamped or exposed aggregate, reducing decorative saw-cut patterns, or scaling back the square footage poured at once. Reinforcement type also affects cost, wire mesh is cheaper than rebar but not appropriate for every driveway. A contractor can usually offer a couple of options at different price points during the estimate.

Most concrete contractors offer a workmanship warranty covering cracking, settling or finish defects that result from the installation itself, typically for one to a few years. Cracking caused by ground movement, tree roots, or work done by others isn't usually covered. Asking what specifically the warranty includes before the job starts is worth doing.

On most residential concrete jobs, the same crew lead who gives the estimate is the point of contact throughout the pour and finishing. This person can answer questions about timing, weather delays and finish details without the homeowner needing to track down a separate office contact. Direct communication with the crew tends to catch problems faster than going through a project manager.

Driveways generally use a higher-strength concrete mix, often 4,000 PSI or more, with rebar reinforcement to handle vehicle weight. Patios can typically use a lighter mix around 3,000 PSI with wire mesh, since they only carry foot traffic and furniture. Mix strength, aggregate size and reinforcement type all get chosen based on what the slab will actually support.

Homeowners typically stay in the house during a concrete pour since the work happens outside and doesn't affect utilities or interior access. The main disruption is losing use of a driveway or backyard area for several days while the concrete cures. Parking on the street or using an alternate entrance usually solves this during the project.

Clearing the area of vehicles, patio furniture, potted plants and any sprinkler heads near the work zone lets the crew grade and form without delay. Marking the location of any known irrigation lines, sprinkler valves or buried cables in advance also helps avoid mid-job surprises. Beyond that, most site prep like old concrete removal and base grading is handled by the crew.

Unexpected issues like poor soil, old buried debris, tree roots, or a cracked irrigation line sometimes turn up once old concrete is removed or excavation starts. A contractor should stop and explain the issue along with any added cost before continuing, rather than pouring over a problem. This can add a day or two to the schedule but prevents a slab from failing early because of what's underneath it.

New concrete should stay free of vehicle traffic for about seven days and shouldn't be sealed until it's fully cured, typically around 28 days. Avoiding de-icing salt in the first year and resealing decorative or stamped concrete every couple of years helps it hold its color and finish. Keeping control joints clear of dirt and vegetation also helps them do their job of managing where the slab cracks.